Sun, May 6, 2012

A/W 12-13 Fashion Collection // Femme Maison


The AW Collection explores the many interpretations of housing in relationship to it´s surroundings. The need of protection and advance. Regarding to Louise Bourgeoise´s sculptures that portrayed relationships either as a whole or in relation to it´s surroundings and space context, the collection describes a coalescence between enclosing and overflowing. Coming up with the idea of covering the body as a landscape, various fabrics, colors and forms explode on the women´s body – catching the moments, colors and compositions of Dante Rosselini´s paintings.

The collection demonstrates a very strong look of a woman, merging with her sensibility, secrets, unconscious and experiences and suggests an expression of motion, flowing circulation and progressing. Sculptural shapes are turning into winding draped fabrics, which are sensually transforming the body. Sexual images and forms found in nature dealing with fear, protection and intimacy. Using up various techniques and structures, handcrafted surfaces and tapestry prints to mould voluminous shapes around the body are key to the collection. Tapestry Borders with wool fringes sewed together affects an overflowing moss look, which is growing along the surface of the fabric. The idea of making dresscoats achieve by using wool – fabrics and fake fur. The combination of cruelly hand-knitwear, lamb´s fur, linen, fake fur and lace fabrics shows the approach of Bourgeois human fabric sculptures. Deliberately raw edges, big pleats and belts are breaking up the sensual draping.

A dualism of symmetry and asymmetry, different lengths, pockets and belts creating unexpected volume and a transformation of the fabric. Deep cutouts, big golden zipper closings and pleats are placed in a very feminine and precise way. The color scheme goes from very pure Ivory, light brown and camel until bright strong colors like green, orange, yellow and dark red, which are inspired by Dante Roselinis women´s paintings. The prints are collages out of old Tapestries, which are an explosion of multi-colored pattern. Green woods and nature landscape prints until classical black. The accessories achieve raw elegance, a combination of purism and pomposity. Using raw materials like amethyst on metal bracelets and rings and golden metal threads bunched together. The plateau lamb´s fur shoes have golden details on the sole. The bags are out of striped multicolored linen and fake fur, accents on small details.

Photography by Sia Kermani
Via Not Just a Label








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